Underground & Overhead Water Tank Cleaning Service in Jeddah

Residential and commercial buildings in Jeddah typically rely on a dual-tank water storage architecture: a primary underground reinforced concrete reservoir located beneath the courtyard, setback, or parking area, paired with one or more overhead tanks mounted on the roof. Underground tanks are lined with food-grade epoxy, cementitious waterproofing mortar, or ceramic tiles, and because they receive the initial inflow from municipal mains or water tankers, they capture the heaviest load of coarse sand, clay silt, and rust particulates.

Overhead rooftop tanks, by contrast, are manufactured from multi-layer high-density polyethylene (HDPE) or fiberglass (GRP). Positioned outdoors under intense sun and heat, these tanks face different challenges: if their top inspection lid becomes loose, cracked, or missing, sunlight and windblown dust enter the warm water, triggering rapid green algae growth and bacterial biofilm along the smooth synthetic walls, in addition to fine silt pumped up from the lower reservoir.

Our technicians apply distinct cleaning protocols for each tank type. In underground concrete reservoirs, we deploy heavy-duty submersible pumps, manual sludge removal, and careful wall brushing tailored to the waterproofing material. In overhead polyethylene and fiberglass tanks, we use soft non-abrasive brushes and sponges that lift algae and biofilm without scoring the smooth interior plastic—preventing microscopic scratches where future algae could anchor—while ensuring both tanks work together as a clean, sealed system.

A household booster pump is intentionally installed with its suction foot-valve elevated 15 to 30 centimeters above the floor of the underground tank so it does not draw heavy sand into domestic pipes. Consequently, the lowest layer of water in any underground reservoir acts as a permanent settling basin where mud, fine sand, calcareous scale, and organic debris accumulate year after year.

To empty this zone safely, our crew lowers a dedicated high-flow submersible pump to the bottom of the reservoir and connects long, heavy-duty discharge hoses routed directly to an approved sanitary inspection chamber (manhole) on the property. Crucially, we never flush thick sand or heavy construction mud down your household sewer lines, as doing so could obstruct your building's plumbing traps.

Once the standing water is pumped down to the floor level, our technician enters the reservoir and manually scrapes and scoops the heavy bottom sludge, sand mounds, and sump-pit deposits into buckets that are lifted out of the tank for safe disposal. The remaining thin slurry on the floor is then extracted using commercial wet vacuums and high-absorbency sponges until the concrete or epoxy floor is completely bare.

The interior waterproofing lining of an underground concrete tank is a critical structural barrier: it keeps stored drinking water from leaking into the building's foundations and prevents surrounding groundwater or soil moisture from seeping into the reservoir. Whether your tank is protected by a blue food-grade epoxy coating, polymer-modified cementitious mortar, or glazed ceramic tiles, preserving that barrier during cleaning is paramount.

We strictly prohibit the use of wire brushes, metal scrapers, or corrosive acids (such as muriatic acid or harsh household descalers) inside water tanks, as these strip epoxy coatings and dissolve cementitious waterproofing joints. Instead, our technician begins by inspecting the condition of the wall lining, then systematically scrubs all four walls, vertical corners, the overhead ceiling slab, and the floor using medium-soft synthetic bristles that physically break down slippery bacterial biofilm and loose mineral scale without marring the surface.

Following manual and mechanical brushing, walls are washed using a water pressure washer set to a controlled, moderate PSI and wide fan angle. This flushes dislodged grime out of surface pores safely without blistering intact epoxy paint. If our technician discovers pre-existing peeling epoxy, hairline concrete cracks, or groundwater seepage marks during inspection, we treat the area gently and provide an honest report to the homeowner upon completion.

True water tank hygiene requires a careful balance: eliminating bacteria, mold spores, and algae thoroughly while ensuring zero chemical detergent or overpowering chlorine residue remains when the tank is refilled. Because organic mud neutralizes sanitizers on contact, we only apply our sanitizing treatment after all bottom sludge has been removed and the walls have been physically scrubbed and washed.

Technicians apply a measured, potable-water-safe sanitizing solution across the clean walls, corners, ladder, and floor, allowing proper contact time to sanitize microscopic pores. Immediately afterward, we execute a multi-stage fresh-water rinse—washing down every wall from top to bottom and extracting all rinse water from the floor via submersible pump, wet vacuum, and sponge drying until the discharged water is crystal clear and odor-free.

Before climbing out and sealing the hatch, the technician wipes down the internal suction foot-valve strainer and checks that the mechanical or electrical float valve moves freely without scale obstruction (reporting any mechanical wear that may need a plumber's attention). Finally, the exterior lid is closed tightly against dust and insects, and the main water inlet valve is reopened so your tank refills with fresh, clean water.